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Keen's is a tradition British cheddar - raw milk from the farm's own cows, smeared with lard, wrapped in linen, then aged for 1-2 years.

We tried it side by side with several other cheddars, all of which had been rated as some of the best in the world. And I'd say that the Keen's was the most "cheddary". It certainly wasn't as sharp as many American cheddars, but had more bite than the other British varieties.

Firm and crumbly, but not quite dry. Tangy and earthy. Very full-bodied.

For those wondering, the cat doesn't like Keen's cheddar. So much for my theory about his refined appreciation for artisanal cheese.